Diver Theory? On second thought I'd better call this
'how I make divers' because a real theoretical
understanding of how these lures work is still beyond me.
Dave Whitlock once wrote, in Trout I think, that balancing
flyrod divers was 'impossibly difficult.' I used to agree with him.
But like a lot of things the difficulty is largely
in discovering a repeatable method. Once you know
how to make wigglers it isn't all that hard.
Perspcective: It's also worth mentioning that flyrod wigglers are
special purpose flies. I don't use them often, but I do
use them with confidence when I do. Wigglers are hard to make
and hard to use. But the rewards are great in certain special
purpose conditions, like fishing downstream into a deep
brush-choked log jam that cannot be reached by any traditional
upstream cast. Or for coaxing extra-large spring
creek predators up from their deep weedy hiding places when
they've already shown no interest in drifted beatles,
nymphs or streamers. Or for casting toward the bank, from a moving
boat, when nothing else seems to work.
Heavier Lures If you do use a spinning rod and/or a bait casting rod,
note that all of these wigglers can be made as heavy as you need.
In general, the heavier the wiggler the easier it is to make
and tune. The hardest wigglers to make are the lightest
flyrod variety.
Three Basic Components At the most basic level there are three parts to
any wiggler: a buoyant body, a front-mounted diving
bill of some kind and weight. Exactly how those three components
combine: how big the bill, how much and where the weight, how and
where to build the body is a subject I still haven't
mastered. So I can't put this into a theoretical formula that
implies or dictates dimensional proportions for each new design.
Each new shape, each new pattern, in other words,
inevitably takes some trial and error time. What I can show you
here are the patterns that work for me.
Bouyant bodies. A downward-sloping diving bill has a natural tendancy to bite downward
into the water at first, until resistance from the water forces the
lure to flip over and upside down, so the diving bill now points upwards,
and so the lure shoots straight up to the surface. But if the diving bill is
attached to a bouyant body--of the right shape--flipping the body over
would require the bouyant body to swap position, downward into the denser,
deeper water. At this point the bouyancy of the body overcomes the tendancy to
flip and wobbles over in the other direction. If you get it all built and balanced
properly, the lure wobbles back and forth, with a seductive head-shaking
oscillation, while burrowing downward into deeper water.
Bouyancy on the top of the lure (which counteracts the tendancy to flip)
can also be augmented by the addition of carefully-positioned weight, somewhere near the bottom
half of the lure. The closer to the tip of the diving bill that weight is
the better the lure will dive, the less likely it will be to ever flip
upside down, but the less side-to-side wobble it will have. The trick
then, is to somehow maximize wobble without building a lure that spins
over upside down. Lures will occasionally flip, no matter what. So it is
best to fish a wiggler with a barrel swivel. I like to use a simple double-loop
swivel (with no snap) about 18" up the leader from the attachment point.
Body Materials: Bouyant bodies can be made from closed-cell foam or from soft molded
lure bodies, like the ones bass fishermen are so fond of. You can buy
good-looking pre-molded sculpin and minnow bodies at places like WalMart,
or you can make your own. How to work with hot-melt 'soft bait' resin
is a subject for hard-core lure makers I'll take up at another time.
Diving bills: I've experimented with dozens of diver methods and materials. By far
the most successful way (at least for lightweight flyrod lures) is
to cut extra-wide, extra-long diving bills from the hard but flexible,
flat clear plastic containers used to package produce in recent years.
Every time I buy a package of green house tomatoes or hot chili peppers,
I save the container.
Tuning the Lure: It's important to make the bill a little too large in all dimensions.
The final step in the lure construction process has to happen
in or near the water. To make the lure track and wobble properly you
have to tune the bill by trimming it with toe-nail clippers.
If the lure does not track straight (they never do at first) you have to
trim one side of the bill or the other. If the lure tracks to the
right, trim a sliver of plastic off the left side of the bill.
Cast again and trim again, until you get what you want.
Halford's Ghost: Where to add weight is a mystery. I can only show you a few
of the few successes I've had, and then point you in an experimental
direction. The hardest wigglers to make and balance have a generically
Rapala shape, with a bottom-mounted bill mounted about a 1/5 of the way
back from the front of the lure. What little success I've had with
that general shape relies on careful placement of weight on the
underside of the body, slightly to the rear of the bill.
Flat Fish: An easier class of wigglers is the venerable
Flat Fish shape. To make my version of the Flat Fish (see the
Halford's Ghost link) I make a slightly V-shaped body from
closed-cell foam. I attach that to a clear plastic diving bill.
Then I flatten a small split shot with pliers, and glue that
to the bottom side of the bill. Then I drill a hole in the
middle of the weight and tune the bill. This lure I can
make again and again, and there aren't many fish I can't tempt
with this lure, when and if the conditions are right.
Watusi Worms The Watusi Worm is the easiest of all. I start with a
Twister Tail, lop off most of the front end of the Twister
body, at a steep angle, and then mount a weighted bill.
With this lure I've caught good trout on cold, brown-water
early season days when nothing else worked at all. It takes some
effort to cast, but I can wing it out there up to fifty feet,
when I have to, and that's plenty far enough. The Watusi Worm
(like all of these wigglers) is a deadly big fish lure you'll
just have to use. You wouldn't believe me if I told you.
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