The materials sound right, including "skip the graphite."
You should at least consider using a clear automotive finish instead of varnish. It's more expensive and harder to apply (must spray). But it is more durable. Enough so you should at least consider it.
Spreading tools?
I keep a 5 gallon drywall plaster bucket with a lid filled 1/4 the way up with either Denatured Alcohol or Acetone. Inside the bucket I keep a few throw-away brushes and a collection of metal plaster or drywall trowels, from 1-1/2" inches wide all the way up to a 12" wide finish trowel (which only fits in sideways).
For big layup jobs I pour resin in a puddle and then spread it out with a 12" drywall trowel. Then lay down the fabric, stretching it tight as you lay it down so there are minimal wrinkles, using all four hands.
Then stroke the fabric with the big drywall knife, from the center out to the edges, in order to get the resin distributed (add some if you need to) and to get any wrinkles out and to slightly tension the fabric, as if you were pulling on the fabric (with the drywall knife).
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The fabric widths, however, are arbitrary. I've been selling blueprints all the way back to the mid 1980s, when it was all on paper instead of digital. I used to think width mattered and those materials lists go all the way back. I don't pay attention to width any more. Instead I call Larry at Raka and ask him if he has any close-out deals. If he does I buy it. Regardless width. Regardless fabric weight.
If he's got a good deal on 3oz fabric I buy that, but I buy a bit more. Three layers of 3oz is much the same as one layer of 10z. Except better. And if it's only 38" inches wide that's OK too. Just apply the fabric in overlapping diagonal rows. If you overlap each new row half way across the last row, in diagonal rows going this way you end up two layers thick. Do it again slanting the other way and you end up 4 layers thick. That works well for the outside bottom, where extra glass gives you some abrasion resistance. For the inside bottom you don't worry about abrasion. Only strength and stiffness. 2 layers is probably enough. Do that with one overlapping row at right angles to the long axis of the boat, so the inside bottom ends up two layers thick instead of 4 layers thick.
Sides can be done however works best with the fabric you have. My layup mentor Bob at Mountain Man Industries lays up everything with random shapes of fabric that overlap every which way. That's how he does all layups. He does such good work I don't think (in his case) vacuum bagging would change much.
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To get a REALLY good price you have to buy a whole roll of some fabric Larry doesn't want to stock any more. That's what I did the last time. That's a lot more fabric than you need for just one boat. But not that much more expensive than getting just enough fabric at the highest price in his catalog. West System (Gougeon Brothers) makes very good stuff. But they sell everything at the highest possible retail price because they are primarily wholesalers--and they don't want to compete with their retail distribution network. The most expensive place to buy is directly from Gougeon Brothers. Don't even consider it. Buy from Larry at Raka. Or, if you buy West System (Gougeon Brothers) buy from one of their distributors, like West Marine. Or who ever. Just don't buy it from West System directly.