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Patching a daylight hole

Posted by Sandy 
Patching a daylight hole
October 14, 2016 03:44PM
This is an experimental boat I made about 5-6 years ago. I didn't bother trying to make it beautiful because I didn't know....what it would be like.

It has minimal rocker. Is 58" inches wide and 15' feet long. I wanted a boat I could row on the river or use under power with a 20hp motor. It works fairly well both ways. But not great either way. I'd do it differently next time. But I use this boat more than any other. I'm 68 and all my friends who know how to row have moved on to other cities. Or on to the great unknown. Right now I'm tired of being a free fishing guide so I do a lot of motoring around on the big lakes.

Two weeks back I fucked up big time. Was going to power the boat up onto a half submerged trailer. Was headed that way a bit too fast. Went to crank down the throttle and turned it in the wrong direction just as a huge gust of wind pushed the front of the boat sideways. I hit the sharp end of the trailer roller and put a hole in the side. 1/4" Meranti Hydrotech plywood with 3.5oz fabric either side. More glass would have meant less damage. But shit. That layup usually more than enough.

This is how I patched it yesterday. Wet the hole and the fracture lines with hot resin. Push hard on the fracture lines to flex the cracks, so it works the resin in. Putty up the hole. Generously. Cover inside and out with visqueen. Screw on some plywood strips inside and out, with screws going all the way through, so tehy cinch the edges of the hole and the fracture lines tight to the original contours.

Then sand it smooth and re-fiberglass (soon, as soon as it stops raining....I have to do this outside because my shop is filled with a new boat project).

Sand again and paint. It should be an invisible mend...........outside and inside in the pics below.........










Re: Patching a daylight hole
October 15, 2016 12:41PM
My white water friends Larry Jeremy and Dave take patching kits with them on desert white water trips. Resin, fabric, resin thickener and screw gun and screws. I'm not sure what all they take but I'd definitely add visqueen and a few 3/8" plywood forming strips to that kit.

With the above rig you can patch almost anything.



Re: Patching a daylight hole
October 16, 2016 02:10PM
Ok this photo has a 2009 date stamp. So that's when I built this boat. Seven years ago.

This is how I glued the Plascore bottom to plywood sides without using stitches. I slobbered glue and weighted it down.

My plan this time is to have the first 8" inches of the sides Plascore too. With all plywood no glass and no ribs above that. 3/8" inch plywood sides. 8" wide 1/2" thick ledge top gunwale.

No one has built a boat that way. The bottom chine and 8" sides as glass with plywood above is new. The plywood boat with no glass and no ribs has been built before. Perhaps. But not often and never before with the ledge top gunwale. This will be an interesting boat.






Re: Patching a daylight hole
October 20, 2016 12:23PM
It's not clear what you are suggesting.

What I'm building for the bottom starts with something like an all Placore boat whose sides are only 8" inches high.

Over top of that, on the outside, 3/8" inch plywood will overlap the top 4" inches of the 8" inch plywood side, so the plywood will start 4" up from the chine edge. The 4" inch overlap will squash down onto a closed cell foam gasket. Some butyl caulk will be involved too. Butyl caulk is roofer's caulk. It has no bonding strength but it is extremely sticky and water proof. That way the panels are fastened mechanically and can be taken apart at any time. And yet it will be completely water tight.

4" inch overlap might not be enough. I may need to make a 10" inch side with a six inch overlap. Details like that get worked out as you build it. Details like that become clearer when you can see it, and when you work it with your hands.

Plywood on the inside of an 8" inch plascore side wall is no good because it leaves a fat 3/4" rim around the edge of the boat, which would be like a chine strip bump on an old fashioned ribbed boat, which nearly flips the boat if you suddenly, accidentally get it sideways to a fast current.

My goal is to minimize fiberglass work. And to make a boat that, aside from the bottom, is mechanically fastened everywhere. So it can be completely taken apart and re-assembled piece by piece, at any time, so any and all parts can be fixed or replaced. At any time.



Re: Patching a daylight hole
October 20, 2016 02:22PM
It won't be hard. I've done it before
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