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Ripping strips for a glue lam chine strip

Posted by Sandy 
Ripping strips for a glue lam chine strip
June 30, 2017 04:27AM
This is a cell phone experiment, I'll fix this post up later today.


I get sharper pics with my camera. I just wanted to see if I could do this with a phone. You do have to use a phone app to reduce the size of the image to no more than 600 pixels wide before the upload.

I finally got started on what will be my last boat. Started again anyway. I built a form or plug two years ago and then lost a year to three eye surgeries last year. After this boat I'll have three. I'll maintain them and enjoy them but it's too hard to build from scratch when I can't even see the screw heads.

I had an idea to build an all wood boat with a Plascore/fiberglass bottom that wrapped the chine. That is still an interesting idea but I'm going to simplify it and make a Plascore bottom panel only, that screws onto all wood above that. No ribs. Everything fastens to an extra stout laminated white oak chine strip, with roofer's caulk, so any and all parts can be removed and replaced.

I'll have to fill the Plascore cells with putty at the edges of the bottom panel, so it can be screwed tight to the nailer.

The nailer will be 2" inches high and a full 1" inch thick white oak. I would have used ash but my local lumber yard didn't have it. You can't bend that much oak full thickness so I'll rip up a lot of 2" by 1/4" strips, as above, and laminate them in place on the form.

Details of that laminating process will appear as the project projects. I've made laminated in place gunwales. Now it will be fastener strips, for the bottom to the sides and for the sides to the deck. 4 quarter inch thick layers.

You need a form, lots of visqueen lots of clamps and a pot full of epoxy putty.




Re: Ripping strips for a glue lam chine strip
June 30, 2017 01:26PM
A side note:

I have a Delta 10" Industrial table saw. It's a step up from their Contractor's saw and a step down from their top of the line Unisaw.

It came from the factory with a 2hp motor wired to 110. It wasn't cutting the mustard ripping 2" inch tall white oak strips, even with a freshly sharpened blade.

So I rewired the motor yesterday to run 220. It runs a lot stronger. There are wood worker discussion forums out there were some will tell you there is no power difference, between 110 and 220. But they're wrong. Flat wrong.

The same motor wired 220 has far more low end torque. I should have done this a long time ago.



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