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Very nice! You have a few more options for a drift boat up there in Virginia than we do here in NC. Hope you get good use of it on the smallmouths and musky.
by
Allan
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Drift Boat Building
What you want is called an Agreed Value Policy. You decide how much you want to be reimbursed and therefore how much premium you can afford. I also have a policy with Hagerty for an old antique car.
https://www.hagerty.com/Classic-Boat-Insurance/Policy-features
by
Allan
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Drift Boat Building
I used 1/2 inch double braid. I ordered it from Jamestown Distributors, but if there is a marine store around they would have it. The quality would be much above home center rope. If you have a choice get dacron (polyester) which does not have the stretch of nylon.
by
Allan
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Drift Boat Building
Those are all good advice. Use long ratio scarves also. I've used Ipe for pieces that needed great strength but it is so heavy I probably wouldn't use it for big items. I used it for foot braces, etc. but I have had it break in short, cross-grained situations. It would be useful for high wear situations like oar tips but haven't tried that application yet.
by
Allan
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Drift Boat Building
Larry, I worked 2 years or more on the boat but I work by myself and on weekends and around other projects. The raised floors are all sealed, hopefully won't get punctured. The bottom is plascore with kevlar and glass in and out and then linex so should be ok. I cut the groove for the rope with a core box bit with a bushing on the router running against a 1/2" plywood template. I u
by
Allan
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Drift Boat Building
Thanks. I was wondering whether to go over the top or through the sides. I was worried that they would tend to slip or slide apart but was probably unwarranted. If they did I bet you could notch out the top edge like scallops.
Here is a photo of the outside. I will fully admit that routing the groove is total overkill. Looks good but not necessary. I did it also because my rowers seat si
by
Allan
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Drift Boat Building
I think the most comfortable rope seats use thick rope and have them close together. I used 1/2" double braid. If you can find dacron (polyester) it will be better than nylon because dacron stretches much less. Look at marine supply sites. Also, I think you need an easy way to keep them tight as they tend to sag after a while. Here are photos of how I clamped the end. You just can'
by
Allan
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Drift Boat Building
I am a festool fan also. Their track saw is invaluable for cutting up sheet goods and is also essentially dustless. No need for a panel saw for home shops now. Since it came out Dewalt and others have come out with similar equipment which I haven't tried, but it would be hard to match Festool quality.
by
Allan
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Drift Boat Building
Joe, you sound like me. I am happy with my boat but was disappointed in the varnish coat. There are runs especially on the vertical surfaces that really bugged me. But nobody else ever sees them, most people barely see them even when I point them out. I started out spraying Bristol but it ran badly. I then applied a few coats of Epiphanes varnish which was more thixotropic but still ran some.
by
Allan
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Drift Boat Building
Since you discounted cost, I see no disadvantage to Kevlar on both sides. I still contend that impact with most objects results in tension of the surface of both inside and outside, not compression.
by
Allan
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Drift Boat Building
Thanks Larry. I wonder how light a Plascore and/or foam one person boat would turn out to weigh? If a Royalex one person whitewater canoe weighs between 40 and 50 lbs, I wonder if the plascore boat could be under a 100. I guess we will find out when Sandy gets further along.
by
Allan
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Drift Boat Building
I can't wait to see the photos. This sounds like what I had mentioned I needed in a post some time ago. I would like to build a one-man boat that I could easily carry. Most of the rivers here in NC are shallow and bony and launching is usually at bridges with no ramp. I need to be able to portage around dams too. Most people here use pontoon boats or canoes but I want another driftboat.
by
Allan
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Drift Boat Building
I used 6 mm teak plywood for the sides of my Guide model because it was available close by from the wholesaler. I glassed both sides before stitching together and had no insurmountable problems.
by
Allan
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Drift Boat Building
What kind of seats are you making? A photo would help a lot to see where the problem occurred. Wiping with acetone is never a bad idea but I've been working wood for decades and never have used solvent on oak or other common native hardwoods and never had a problem. Not knowing your seat design, I don't know if this applies but using a well designed joint is more important than the g
by
Allan
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Drift Boat Building
I used teak oil on the bare wood like gunwales, seats, etc. On the epoxy covered plywood inside I sprayed Bristol. It is real thin and not very thixotropic so it ran pretty bad. I sanded out the runs and covered it with two or three spray coats of Epifanes spar varnish. It is a real high quality varnish but expensive, so is Bristol. Next time I will just use the spar varnish from the start.
by
Allan
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Drift Boat Building
I also have been considering building another boat and use all plascore. What I was planning on building would be a one man drift boat that would be light enough to portage around dams by myself and launch where the river is not near the road. I think Sandy's idea of the shelf type gunwales is the way to go and if you wanted to add an outside strip of wood for a finished look, it wouldn
by
Allan
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Drift Boat Building
I had never weighed in on the kevlar inside/outside issue before but here is my non-engineer thinking. When you hit a typical rock, not a wall in other words, I think you get tension both inside and outside. The bottom stretches just like the wall of a balloon when you blow it up. I imagine it is not much different than when a raft hits a rock and the skin stretches. If you bend a piece of pl
by
Allan
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Drift Boat Building