Do it your self wood fiberglass drift boat plans and step-by-step building instructions
DIY Wood and Fiberglass Drift Boat Plans --
drift boat building -- online drift boat blueprints
The Honky Dory -- a wide white water dory
Now as a 15' foot or 17' foot boat
The Honky Dory is
more of a white water boat than the Beavertail. The Honky Dory is
wide and stable in big water -- the 15' foot version (made from
16' foot side panels) is 56" inches wide under the oarlocks. Like
most traditional Oregon-style boats the Honky Dory is wide up
front too. Stitch and glue construction is assumed although all
included plans can be adapted to traditional framed dory
construction techinques. But unlike Oregonstyle boats the HD has
a small front deck and movable/adjustable seats so the payload
can be shifted forward enough to accommodate an additional
fisherman behind the rower.
Beavertail: all around do anything boat
well-suited to Fly Fishing, now as 15' or 17' feet
The Beavertail is an easy rowing day trip fly fishing guide
boat. It turns well and holds well. Most important, the
Beavertail trims properly with a husky passenger seated behind to
rower.Not many boats--from any manufacturer or builder--can make
that claim. All Boat Plans are offered online honly -- in other
words what you get is a password to otherwise hidden portions of
the website. As such there are no blueprints per se. Everything
is offered online.
Buffalo Boat -- the smallest pickup truck boat
that will hold three in the boat
Montana Riverboats Buffalo Boat
buffalo is a standard 15' 48" wide driftboat chopped off at both
ends. Unlike a Rapid Robert, which is pointed at one end, the
Buffalo Boat is chopped off square at both ends. The idea was to
build a short, lightweight pickup truck boat built from the fat
business-only portions (the middle) of a standard boat. The
Buffalo Boat is now going on 25 years old and still going strong.
This one is sitting on a trailer, but the Buffalo Boat does fit
nicely in the back of any standard size pickup. If you place it
on top of a spare tire and drop the tailgate, it will even fit in
the back of a small pickup. The boat pictured here is a
high-sided, fully-rockered Buffalo Boat. You can challenge
surprisingly difficult water with this boat. Many users, however,
do choose to reduce the rocker by up to 3", and to cut the height
of the side panels down by as much as 4" or so, in order to make
a less wind-resistent skiff, suitable for fly fishing in
MRB Dayak -- as fun as white water gets
love this little boat. Building plans and step-by-step
instructions are not finished and perhaps never will be. The
diagrams and dimensions
Experienced boat builders can plunge right in. Right now.
Beginners should know there will be some problem-solving along
the way. The important information is all there. But the
step-by-step instructions are not. I'm 69 in 2017 and I've got
other things to work on before I'm ...... So maybe it's best to
think of this as a freeby add-on to the completed plan sets
already available. This little boat sure is fun to row. I can do
anything with it. Even head back upstream at times. You can hold
it in fast water and turn on a dime. And it sure is stable, even
in very big water. It's a great little white water boat, although
I did flip in once, after dropping into an 8' foot hole sideways,
like a fool, because I was trying to ferry away from a wave train
and didn't see it coming.
DIY Stitch and Glue Drift Boat Building.
Digital blueprints, online plans images diagrams and step by step
One-off Wood/Fiberglass and All Fiberglass
Dimensions and instructions for five different boats
How to hull
How to design and build your own hull from scratch
How build a stitch and glue boat from someone else's
Blog Blog Start
Belt sander finally got useful. I need to rebuild the frame so I can sand curved parts with the front end of the sander. Today was a tool building day. Scarfer comes next.
Cardboard deck rim
The cardboard might not be strong enough.
I might have to replace it with plywood and fiberglass. We'll see. This (the cardboard pattern) is the outer rim of a two or maybe three part deck. The inner deck section(s) will bolt down onto the perimeter rim over a 1" inch thick foam gasket, so wave crashing can't swamp the boat and sink it.
The whole inner section(s) will hinge up and down (in one or maybe two parts) so you can store coolers and camping gear below, without having to fight with a rabbit warren of hatch covers that are never big enough. Most of the visible cross braces shown here are only temporary. Progress happens. Slowly.
A vid from last week
Aluminum is--hotrod plywood
Kirk built this boat with the MRBoats Honky Dory plans--subsituting aluminum sheeting for plywood. Cool stuff. I need to buy a welder. Kirk used a mig welder.
Big Bugs -- are almost here
Locker lids that leak are the work of satan.
A raised lip in the deck made from Trex decking material matched with a loosely fitting lid that has an EVA closed-cell foam gasket inside works nicely. If and only if the latch pulls DOWN on the lid as it latches. To do that you can make slanted latch-mounting blocks with Miratec Fascia board and/or more Trex decking material. Wood swells with moisture over time. No matter what. Miratec and Trex never swell. No matter what.
In this photo a ten year old Dayak is in the middle of a bit of maintenance. Locker lids now. Body work and paint job next.
Bulkheads Roughed In
I haven't been in the shop much last two weeks. I finally got the bulkheads roughed in.
Nothing gets glued in this experimental boat. It all goes together with caulk and Torx screws so anything and everything can be replaced or remodelled. At any time.
Bulkheads help hold up the deck and in case of a puncture they limit water intrusion to one section of the boat only, so you can still row slowly home for repairs if you cave in the front end of the boat. Bulkheads aren't structural. Not mine anyway. So I'm using 3/8" rough sawn siding plywood--largely because it's light and because I had some.
The bulkheads will caulk and screw to wooden cleats on the inside sides, and to strips of Miratec fascia board glued to the (fiberglass) inside bottom. Miratec doesn't soak up moisture so it works well for non-structural cleats--that do get glued to the fiberglass boattom shoe.
Long and Skinny or Long and Wide?
Should a white water dory carry its passengers in the middle? Or out a the ends like a Briggs?
I want the weight in the middle of the boat rather than out at the ends. For a lot of reasons.
In a high rocker boat passengers out at the ends are high up rather than low down. That makes the boat unnecessarily tippy.
Weight in the middle is more side to side stable and easier and quicker to turn.
Traditional Oregon dory builders know this. They have always put the payload as two or even three passengers across on a front seat relatively far back from the downstream end of the boat. That's how they perform best.
Two rogue traditions changed that: fly fishing and the Grand Canyon. For fly fishing you have to separate the two passengers. The boats become less maneuverable but that's the price you have to pay. The Grand Canyon is an odd story. Martin Litton paid Keith Steele to make a decked boat big enough to take four passengers. The Susy Two. Keith wasn't into it. He chopped in 15x48 boat in half and stretched it out to 19 feet long instead of scaling it up proportionately, so it was a long skinny boat with passengers at both ends.
He didn't want to build any more so Martin Litton got Jerry Briggs to do much the same. Not many Grand Canyon runners have ever tried to change anyhing. They build long skinny boats that are annoyingly side to side tippy. If a 19' foot boat had been scaled up proportionately, from the original Keith Steele boat, it would have been 60" inches wide not 48.
If it had been scaled up proportionately it could have carried all four passengers in the middle instead of the the ends. Which is how Oregon dories are supposed to work.