folder Beavertail folder Honky-Dory folder Buffalo-Boat folder Dayak folder Drift-boat-info folder Flies Flures Lures folder Oar locks and Anchor systems folder Birds What-you-get.htm Stitch-and-Glue.htm index.htm
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This was my first stab at a one man boat. I basically scaled down a Buffalo Boat so it was made with one sheet of plywood for the side panels. It was only abou 36" inches wide on the bottom. It rowed surprisingly well once you got into it. Bui after falling on my wet butt a few dozen times trying to get into it and out of it I took my Sawzall to it.
"The next one will be wider, lower and decked," I said to myself. And then the Dayak happened.
The Future of Drift BoatsFwiw my current direction is plywood still skinned in glass, but where (almost) nothing is glued. All parts screw together over either a gasket or a thick bead of roofer's caulk--so any and every part can be replaced. In the old days skid shoes were popular on the bottom. The idea was to replace the skid shoe periodically in order to protect the bottom panel, because that was glued to the ribs and nearly impossible to replace. That's the idea. Screw all parts together with Torx screws and (marine grade) caulk. Now you don't need a skid shoe. Just replace the bottom every ten years. Glass makes side panels so much stronger I'll glass them up. But they will NOT be glued at the seams. Everything will go together with screws and caulk. Has that boat been made? I'm working on it. In traditional framed boats, if a side panel gets hopelessly fractured it's hard to remove if it's been glued to the ribs. If everything goes together with Torx screws everything can come apart. In a jiffy. After 30 years of fiberglass work I'm heading back to all wood. Or close to it anyway. I might use a little glass here and there. Change is good. Change is more interesting. I'm interested in decked all-wood boats, with only a few (removable) interior bulkhead partitions. And no ribs'a no kind. The only good ribs are the barbequed kind. Think about it. Even if you build a low-sided square ended skiff, if it's decked you can still run Yankee Jim Canyon or Whitehorse rapids. It's low so the wind won't torture you on the Deschutes. A decked low-sided skiff could run the Grand Canyon. Tom Martin does it all the time with his little GEM. Plenty of storage below the deck. Comfortable seats and optional standing/casting braces on top. Open boats don't make sense to me anymore. The original McKenzie boats had high sides so an OPEN boat could run big water. But then they're wind sails. Then they're hard to get into and out of. It just doesn't make sense. Decked is where it's at. The Dayak convinced me of that.
What you get for $25 dollars is a passwordThere are a lot public, free-for-all pages here at Montana Riverboats. What is for sale is a password granting access to blocks of HTML pages, diagrams, images and
The only pages that do prompt for a password have the characters 'Ebook' or 'Diagrams' in the text of the link. The password protected pages are all in epub format, which means they look like like electronic book pages read in a Kindle, Barnes and Noble Mobi or Googe Playbooks ebook.
I used to sell real paper blueprints paried with a ring-bound manual. Others still do that, for prices ranging from $150 dollars and up, for only one boat at a time..
From Montana Riverboats you get a password for $25 dollars, granting online acccess to three different boats coming as five individual plan sets, if you count the bigger and smaller size options available for the Beavertail and the Honky Dory. There is even a fourth not-yet completed plan set (the Dayak) thrown in for free. Buy a password. Look things over.
Note too: The forum is a separate password. You have to create your own forum password by navigating to the forum and clicking the "Login or Register" button. The following is an example of a link that does prompt for a $25 dollar password:
Ask for a refund if you have buyer's remorse. I'm easy. I don't need a reason. Just a request. Good luck. Sandy.