Larry Hedrick's stitch-and-glue wood/fiberglass Honky Dory -- Carnage
Kirk Dittenber's Aluminum Honky Dory
Think of aluminum as a special hotrod version of plywood--and weld it at the edges instead of guiing it.
Ten year old all-fiberglass Dayak at Joe-hutch--May 2018
Desolation Canyon May 2018
Blog (click any images for a bigger view)
These are surprisingly easy to make. You can make them light (for the fly rod) or as heavy as you want.
Maybe next week. I need to row this before it's buttoned up. At this point I can still move things around a bit. If need be. 3D sofrware is fine. But the only way to really work out the details of an all new design is to work with it full size. What you see is what you get.
How high do I have to put the rower's seat to get a boat this wide to row well with 10' foot oars? We'll see. We'll see.
The bulkheads are just 3/8" inch rough sawn cedar siding plywood. They're not structural. They're just there to keep the boat from sinking. If it gets punctured a rock, rerod or sharp beaver log.
The bottom is 3/4" inch honeycomb core fiberglass.
Foot wells in place. Plumbing (drain the foot wells) next. Then the deck.
This is a sub-deck donut. It gets fastened down over gobs of marine silicone caulk. The real deck clamps down on top with heavy-duty locking wire clasps, over a 2" inch thick foam gasket.
The real deck is, in other words, removable. Which makes coolers duffle bags and groovers a lot easier to deal with.
This decked white water boat is or will be a strong 17' feet long with a 66" bottom and an 8' foot beam. This shop has a 9' foot ceiling, which provides some scale to the image.