Welcome! Log In Create A New Profile



Posted by Ed Powers 
June 14, 2019 01:57AM
Purchased the plans to build a dayak. It will be used mostly in the Northeast so rock bashing is expected. With that in mind I am planning on utilizing 3/4" plascore with kevlar on the inside and glass on the exterior. Additionally I would like to make a removable deck to allow easier repairs. It appears that the original was made without any bulkheads so maybe a tiedown system to prevent movement of cargo is in order. The location of the seat and oarlocks is not indicated by station so recommendations for that would be helpful. If Sandy has pictures of how the deck was secured I would be greatful. Finally, input on layups keeping in mind that strength needs to be balance with weight. Thanks for any suggestions.
Re: Dayak
June 14, 2019 02:42AM
I'll respond little-by-little. My Dayak is the only one I know of so far. It's a hell of a boat. I've done two May high water trips down Utah's Desolation Canyon on the Green. Mine has no bulkheads but it should have one, probably under the back end of the rower's seat position. I'm primarily a prototype builder, so with first time boats I tend to get a little loose with the details. I haven't counted but my Dakak must be five or six years old now.

I still haven't figured out the right way to mount an anchor. I had one hanging off the upstream end for a while but it made the boat too rear end heavy. An adjustable position rower's seat might fix that. I'm trying to envision a way to hang the anchor off the upstream end while using it, but to store the anchor right behind the rower when not using it, so I can still sit in the middle, have an anchor and have the boat trim properly.

I've thought about hanging the anchor off the front end. That would make it easier to pull in quickly but it would mean the boat would spin around and face upstream every time you dropped the anchor.

You don't want any anchor at all on white water trips. But you do need one--big time--for day trip fishing expeditions in class III or less. Always always always keep a razor sharp knife close at hand when using an anchor. I've cut the anchor rope a few times. And was dam glad I had that knife. Accidentally snagging an anchor in fast water is not a good thing.

I like to experiment. I've built my share of dud failures. The Dayak is one of the best things I ever made.
Re: Dayak
June 14, 2019 02:45AM
The Dayak deck was removable first two seasons. Then I glued it down. Big mistake.

Removable decks are where it's at. No question.

At the top inside edge of the gunwale I glued 1/4" inch laminated strips to form a hidden gunwale. I used a power plane to trim that top edge up after the glue had set, so it was smooth and always parallel to the water's surface. Epoxied that. Buried threaded brass liners (with machine threads inside and course wood threads outside) into that laminated gunwale. To do that I carefully waxed up the inside threads and twisted the liners down into a hole freshly soaked in wet resin.

Then I used contact cement to glue down a 1" inch foam gasket all the way around. Then the deck bolted down onto the gasket.

..........back up a step. Before drilling any holes for the brass socket liners that hold down the deck I put the deck onto the boat. Put a few 5 gallon buckets of water on the deck to hold it down temporarily and then drilled down through the deck, into the laminated inwale. That way all the holes lined up.

The bolt down deck worked. Why I glued it down two years later is a mystery. I guess I wanted to have the comparison. The answer was clear. Bolt down decks are the way to go. Any boat I ever build from here on out will be decked. With a removable bolt-down deck, gasket and all. Even day trip fly fishing boats should be decked. Lower sides and decked, like a fat and wide walk-on, walk-off SUP board with oars. This is the way it is I declare it so?

Re: Dayak
June 14, 2019 01:16PM

The Dayak is a square ended one person boat. I have an old Buffalo Boat (built in 1983) outside my shop now. It's a long story. It's had two other owners and then I got it back. I need to finish another project first. I'm old and have bad eyesight so progress is like a slug on a dry sidewalk. But I am slowly getting there. When that boat is done I want to cut the sides of the Buffalo Boat down and deck it, so it becomes a two person white water boat that also works for day trip fishing.

That boat will be a lot like a Dayak blown up like a balloon.
Re: Dayak
June 14, 2019 04:21PM
I guess you could say I am a whitewater junky. I paddle class 4+ whitewater in a canoe on a regular basis. So far I have rowed the Grand Canyon in a solo 13' cataraft and a 16' dory. Thinking the dayak would be a fun alternative. We would have raft support so weighing it down isn't an issue. Other than that I am looking to play on rivers such as the New, Gauley, Cheat, etc.
Re: Dayak
June 14, 2019 04:22PM
If you have any pictures that would be awesome.
Re: Dayak
June 14, 2019 04:25PM
Great ideas.
Re: Dayak
June 14, 2019 06:37PM
Have photos. Will dig them up ......
Re: Dayak
June 15, 2019 02:30AM
Here is an unsorted and not organized gallery of Dayak photos, some of which are construction pics. At this link you might want to click the "slideshow" link.

The Dayak photos that show a light pea-green primer only were taken when the deck bolted down onto a gasket. By the time it was blue the deack was (alas) glued down permanently.

Re: Dayak
June 15, 2019 01:07PM
I made my first and only Dayak all Plascore.

Plascore for the bottom panel only and 1/4" inch Meranti Hydrotech sides with glass both sides and a 3/8" plywood deck would make a good boat too. I'm not sure what's best.

Plascore is not lighter than plywood. Not much anyway. Plywood has its own stiffness so you only need to add one layer of glass on top (not counting bottom panels, which I never do with plywood anymore). To make Plascore stiff you have to add a lot of glass. It ends up almost as heavy and it's expensive. And a lot of work. Plascore is absolutely better than plywood for bottom panels. For sides and everything else it's not clear if either is better. Plywood is easier.
Re: Dayak
June 16, 2019 12:32AM
Although the plywood is easier and less expensive, repairability of the plascore is a dominating factor. The additional photos which have been added to the dayak file are very useful. Is there any chance of obtaining the stations of the oarlocks and the leading edge of the seat?
Re: Dayak
June 16, 2019 02:38AM
Sure. I can go out to the driveway an measure it up.

For the boat I am building now (a big one) I'm planning to do something new. For all boats (every new idea I get I automatically assume is the best idea ever and applicable to all situations....even though it doesn't always work out that way) I think the rower's seat, foot pegs AND oarlock towers should be a single unit, where within that unit everything can be adjusted.

Guys with long legs need foot pegs further out. Some rowers will want the oarlocks closer to their butt, others further away. Once adjusted to just how you like it that entire assembly should be able to slide and bolt or clamp down forward or back, so the rower's position can be adjusted to make the boat trim perfectly. Do you have a 200lb cooler in the boat? Is it under the front passengers" What about next week when you are doing day trip fly fishing on the Yellowstone?

Also, within that everything adjustable rowing frame the seat should slide, perhaps using ball bearing roller blade wheels, so you can row off your legs the way competition rowing sculls do.

I don't have a mig or tig welder so welding an aluminum frame isn't happening. But you can buy these Mapp gas aluminum soldering sticks now. I'm thinking I'll make this frame out of alluminum tubing, in much the same way most rowing frames for rafts are made, with perhaps a little mapp gas aluminum soldering thrown into the mix.

I bought some used skate board wheels (actually the guy gave them to me) for the rolling rower's seat already (even though I'm not that far along yet) but skate board wheels are perhaps too big. I think I want roller blade wheels. You can buy roller blade wheels on the internet and they aren't expensive.

So.............with all that adjust everything stuff gnat's ass position might be somewhat irrelevant, because all you need is close. And then you adjust it to what works for you.

I will give you some measurements.
Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.

Click here to login