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Paint. Deja Vu all over again

Posted by Sandy 
Paint. Deja Vu all over again
June 28, 2019 12:41PM
I built my first drift boat in 1979. I varnished it with McCloskey's Marine Spar Varnish.
Eventually I started spaying varnish with Penetrol to juice it up a bit.
It looked great but didn't last.

Pigmented paints lasted longer. I tried oil base house paints, one part "Marine Grade Top Side" oil base paints and eventually two part catalyzed polyurethane automotive paints, which can be clear over clear fiberglass, if you still want that bright finish look. I never did buy any two part polyurethane marine paints. They're just automotive paints with a sailboat label. And a much higher price.

Automotive paints look like a million bucks but it's expensive, for both equipment and the paint itself. Over time it does get scratched up, and then you have to prep and spray again. Even the reducer is expensive.

I'm back to using Pettit Easy Poxy right now. But probably not again. You can roll Easy Poxy (it is not epoxy, that's just a trade name) on and brush it out. It helps to buy their "brushing thinner' rather than straight naptha or paint thinner. But it's expensive too. Not as bad as automotive paints but it is something like 35 bucks a quart. The big drawback to Petitt is it only comes in 16 colors. And non of them are what you want.

i just noticed my local Ace Hardware has cans of "Topside Paint" for a bit less. Better yet it comes as white paint. And they can tint it to anything you want. I have a hunch that's all I'll use from here on out. Color matters for me. And now I can buy it downtown rfn instead of the internet and UPS five days later.

When you ding topside paint you scuff it up and brush on some more paint. Small area repairs take 15 minutes instead of three days.
Re: Paint. Deja Vu all over again
June 29, 2019 11:35AM
OOops. I went back to the local Ace Hardware. The rookie floor saleman who told me Rustoleum Topside Paint could be tinted was wrong. At least at Ace, where all tinting mechanisms revolve around water base paint. Apparently he got confused about Shinola.

So back to Petitt and other such paints. That you have to order. That only come in 16 highly saturated colors.

This is an experimental boat I built in 2007. Repainted yesterday, with roller and brush. I don't much like this boat so I didn't turn it into plans. On the other hand I still have it. Still use it. So it's not all that bad.

I do like the ledge-top gunwale on this boat. This is the basis for bolt down decks, by the way. Once you have a ledge top built the rest is easy. This boat has a 3/8" thick 3-1/2" wide ledge top. If you want the boat to be totally stiff, with almost no flex at all, you have to go to a 6" inch wide ledge top, with glass both sides. There is a page on gunwale choices, that includes a discussion about building ledge tops, in the various plan sets. Basically you piece rectangular pieces together, end to end with scarfed slants at the ends (all dry fitted at first), cut the outside edge with ball bearing bit on a router. Cut the inside edge edge close with a jig saw and then use a fence on a router to trim the inside edge to smooth. Then back out the temporary screws, slobber glue on it and put it all back together. You could use epoxy putty but TightBond III is easier to work with and just as strong. Then round it off and glass it.

I use Tightbond for most gluing now. Using epoxy resin just for laminating glass.


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