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Bob's Buffalo boat.

Posted by Bobgraydon 
Re: Bob's Buffalo boat.
September 06, 2019 11:13AM
Thanks for sharing the Plascore info. It may be the best deal out there if youre going to get stuck with freight.
Bob , what is the number on the hardener?
Re: Bob's Buffalo boat.
September 06, 2019 01:20PM
raka tropical 260
Re: Bob's Buffalo boat.
September 06, 2019 01:31PM
Re: Bob's Buffalo boat.
September 07, 2019 06:55AM
first layer of fiberglass cured. Will need sanding before 2nd layer. Fiberglass did not completely ad here to the edges. Re-wet and wait 2-3 hrs for tacky- rubbery the stick down w dry wall knife? pipe clams and visqueen covered cauls? hope to get next layer on today
Re: Bob's Buffalo boat.
September 07, 2019 11:23AM
Not sure what this means.
Re: Bob's Buffalo boat.
September 07, 2019 02:32PM
So you had issues with it sticking around the edges. Plastic sheeting and a 2x4 down the edges would cure that along with a little weight.
Re: Bob's Buffalo boat.
September 07, 2019 02:53PM
The fiberglass/epoxy overlapping the 3/4 sides of the plascore didn't completely adhere to the sides. I'm asking how to fix this-
1) and rewet the fiberglass- let it get rubbery and try to stick it down again with a drywall knife.
2) re wet then use pipe clamps to clamp a visqueen covered piece of wood along the edges to keep the fiberglass in contact with the edges until it sets.
3) just sand re wet out apply 2nd layer of glass/epoxy and the do 1 or 2 above
Re: Bob's Buffalo boat.
September 07, 2019 05:30PM
Make a cell phone photo and send it to sandy dot Pittendrigh at geemail dot com
Re: Bob's Buffalo boat.
September 18, 2019 02:38AM
sanded down to 180 grit- smooth
I noticed that the dried fiber glass protrudes 1/16 to 1/8” from the edges-guess I didn’t get as close as I thought w the trauma shears! I don’t think this will be an issue on the chime edges-as those edges will be trimmed down to be parallel to the forms. Do you recommend a block plane for plascore or is there another method?
I was thinking of using a trim router with a bearing and a cutting guide to clean up the gunnel edges.
Your thoughts?
Re: Bob's Buffalo boat.
September 18, 2019 12:04PM
Re: Bob's Buffalo boat.
September 18, 2019 05:38PM
I mentioned this to Bob already in a email. For the group it's worth mentioning the best way to trim excess fiberglass, where it runs wild past the edge of plywood or Plascore, is to trim it with a fresh sheetrock knife a few hours after layup, then it's tack free but still rubbery and soft.
Re: Bob's Buffalo boat.
September 18, 2019 07:18PM
will be mounting hull sides on forms as soon as my helper gets back from her errands! Just trying to wrap my " 3d space relations impaired brain" around this. beveled edges go towards the bow on form #1 and towards the stern on form #3.
Re: Bob's Buffalo boat.
September 18, 2019 11:39PM
Sides on- the Three Stooges would be proud. needs some minor tweaks- too hot and sweaty to mess with it now. Plascore does not hold screws well- I'd recommend using Sandy's advice about using 1x1 squares of 1/4 scrap plywood to keep screws from digging through the plascose.. Feel like a full days work- had to rearrange my shop to have working room. one side of my garage it taken up by the work table and the other by the boat!

Re: Bob's Buffalo boat.
September 19, 2019 12:33AM
Ah hah. I was going to tell you that about making space but thought you’d figure it out quickly. Looks good so far.
Re: Bob's Buffalo boat.
July 30, 2020 05:19PM
Work, hunting season and then COVID has taken me away from working on my Buffalo Boat- in my infrequent trips to the garage/work shop i discovered that the edges of the sides were not exactly flush with the top of the forms due to 1/8" to 1/4 of overhanging fiberglass that I didn't get trimmed flush. Required me to take side panels off the forms-and spend hours with a rasp getting it flush.
Then had to wait for the other 2 Stooges availability to put sides back on the forms.
Plascore does not hold fasteners well- finally ended up using scrap plywood and decking screws to mount the sides on the forms. Everything plumb and square.
Then disaster strikes somehow the boat got moved and when I opened the garage door a week later the edges of the bow got caught in the door and ripped the panels off the bow frame.
forms are kind of chewed up with multiple screw holes- thinking I will have to fill screw holes with epoxy before I attempt to remount them or go back to square 1 and cut new forms and start over???? I'll also have to fill all the screw holes in the plascore /fiberglass sides.
Beginning to think that plywood sides are an option at this point.
Any thoughts
Re: Bob's Buffalo boat.
July 30, 2020 06:46PM
This is how I hold Plascore onto a form, with drywall screws going through 1/4" inch plywood scraps, through the Plascore and into the form.

I've never tried to build an all Plascore boat without a form underneath. Larry Hedrick has done it. I'm sure it's tricky. A form is just a plywood boat built with cheap AC plywood instead of expensive marine plywood.

This is a Dayak, fwiw

Re: Bob's Buffalo boat.
July 31, 2020 12:57PM
OK- that makes sense. Just to make sure I'm clear on this-
1)use cheap plywood cut to same dimensions as given in the plans for sides-transoms and bottom? 1/4" 1/2 or 3/4 "?
2) was looking at Edens webs site - the sell "puzzle fitted precut sheets" is this adequate for joints? or is scarfing superior?
3) if I use cheap plywood over forms can i get away with butt joints on the cheap plywood?
I'm trying to rethink the whole thing- not giving up
Re: Bob's Buffalo boat.
August 01, 2020 03:23PM
For "form plugs" I use 1/4" inch AC construction plywood. I do scarf it into 4x16 before cutting out side panel blanks. That may not be necessary, depending on context. I have always done it that way.

The first two or three Honky Dories made in 1986-1987 were made with end grain balsa core sheets, that comes in 2' foot by 2' foot panels. I made my first "plug" for those boats. I've done all new boat construction work that way ever since.

When working out the dimensions for a new boat I like to work with a full-size AC plywood model. That way I don't have to stress about dinging the plywood. When it looks right I put more expensive plywood on top. Or Plascore.

Actually I have recently been buying AA Marine grade fir. It's only nominally more expensive than AC and it's a lot better. That's a long story. AA Marine fir used to be how Northwest Coast dory makers made boats. Then the industry changed the manufacturing specification and it isn't as good as it used to be. It is better than AC.

If you custom order AA fir the shipping will cost more than the plywood. I go to my local lumber yard and ask them to put a half a dozen sheets onto their next semi-load from Oregon. Sometimes I have to wait a month. But that way the shipping is essentially free.
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