Thanks for sharing the Plascore info. It may be the best deal out there if youre going to get stuck with freight.
Bob , what is the number on the hardener?

raka tropical 260

Thanks

first layer of fiberglass cured. Will need sanding before 2nd layer. Fiberglass did not completely ad here to the edges. Re-wet and wait 2-3 hrs for tacky- rubbery the stick down w dry wall knife? pipe clams and visqueen covered cauls? hope to get next layer on today

Not sure what this means.

So you had issues with it sticking around the edges. Plastic sheeting and a 2x4 down the edges would cure that along with a little weight.

Sandy
The fiberglass/epoxy overlapping the 3/4 sides of the plascore didn't completely adhere to the sides. I'm asking how to fix this-
1) and rewet the fiberglass- let it get rubbery and try to stick it down again with a drywall knife.
2) re wet then use pipe clamps to clamp a visqueen covered piece of wood along the edges to keep the fiberglass in contact with the edges until it sets.
3) just sand re wet out apply 2nd layer of glass/epoxy and the do 1 or 2 above

Make a cell phone photo and send it to sandy dot Pittendrigh at geemail dot com

sanded down to 180 grit- smooth
I noticed that the dried fiber glass protrudes 1/16 to 1/8” from the edges-guess I didn’t get as close as I thought w the trauma shears! I don’t think this will be an issue on the chime edges-as those edges will be trimmed down to be parallel to the forms. Do you recommend a block plane for plascore or is there another method?
I was thinking of using a trim router with a bearing and a cutting guide to clean up the gunnel edges.
Your thoughts?

Try using a Sureform file. https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-21-295-Surform-Regular-Blade/dp/B00002X1ZK/ref=asc_df_B00002X1ZK/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309763890402&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15168292612635744455&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9021322&hvtargid=aud-801657747996:pla-481583251804&psc=1

................or a horse shoer's rasp:
https://shopedss.com/bellota-horse-hoof-rasp-for-farriers-14-raptor-wide-rasp/?sku=BRRPTR-14&gclid=CjwKCAjwq4fsBRBnEiwANTahcDsZxZL_8oCR0Osot-H1Ztgv-ja-ktxXQ-AcItKsz1l5gbPGoMrQExoCMnIQAvD_BwE

I mentioned this to Bob already in a email. For the group it's worth mentioning the best way to trim excess fiberglass, where it runs wild past the edge of plywood or Plascore, is to trim it with a fresh sheetrock knife a few hours after layup, then it's tack free but still rubbery and soft.

will be mounting hull sides on forms as soon as my helper gets back from her errands! Just trying to wrap my " 3d space relations impaired brain" around this. beveled edges go towards the bow on form #1 and towards the stern on form #3.

Sides on- the Three Stooges would be proud. needs some minor tweaks- too hot and sweaty to mess with it now. Plascore does not hold screws well- I'd recommend using Sandy's advice about using 1x1 squares of 1/4 scrap plywood to keep screws from digging through the plascose.. Feel like a full days work- had to rearrange my shop to have working room. one side of my garage it taken up by the work table and the other by the boat!

Ah hah. I was going to tell you that about making space but thought you’d figure it out quickly. Looks good so far.

Work, hunting season and then COVID has taken me away from working on my Buffalo Boat- in my infrequent trips to the garage/work shop i discovered that the edges of the sides were not exactly flush with the top of the forms due to 1/8" to 1/4 of overhanging fiberglass that I didn't get trimmed flush. Required me to take side panels off the forms-and spend hours with a rasp getting it flush.
Then had to wait for the other 2 Stooges availability to put sides back on the forms.
Plascore does not hold fasteners well- finally ended up using scrap plywood and decking screws to mount the sides on the forms. Everything plumb and square.
Then disaster strikes somehow the boat got moved and when I opened the garage door a week later the edges of the bow got caught in the door and ripped the panels off the bow frame.
forms are kind of chewed up with multiple screw holes- thinking I will have to fill screw holes with epoxy before I attempt to remount them or go back to square 1 and cut new forms and start over???? I'll also have to fill all the screw holes in the plascore /fiberglass sides.
Beginning to think that plywood sides are an option at this point.
Any thoughts

This is how I hold Plascore onto a form, with drywall screws going through 1/4" inch plywood scraps, through the Plascore and into the form.

I've never tried to build an all Plascore boat without a form underneath. Larry Hedrick has done it. I'm sure it's tricky. A form is just a plywood boat built with cheap AC plywood instead of expensive marine plywood.

This is a Dayak, fwiw

OK- that makes sense. Just to make sure I'm clear on this-
1)use cheap plywood cut to same dimensions as given in the plans for sides-transoms and bottom? 1/4" 1/2 or 3/4 "?
2) was looking at Edens webs site - the sell "puzzle fitted precut sheets" is this adequate for joints? or is scarfing superior?
3) if I use cheap plywood over forms can i get away with butt joints on the cheap plywood?
I'm trying to rethink the whole thing- not giving up
Thanks
Bob

For "form plugs" I use 1/4" inch AC construction plywood. I do scarf it into 4x16 before cutting out side panel blanks. That may not be necessary, depending on context. I have always done it that way.

The first two or three Honky Dories made in 1986-1987 were made with end grain balsa core sheets, that comes in 2' foot by 2' foot panels. I made my first "plug" for those boats. I've done all new boat construction work that way ever since.

When working out the dimensions for a new boat I like to work with a full-size AC plywood model. That way I don't have to stress about dinging the plywood. When it looks right I put more expensive plywood on top. Or Plascore.

Actually I have recently been buying AA Marine grade fir. It's only nominally more expensive than AC and it's a lot better. That's a long story. AA Marine fir used to be how Northwest Coast dory makers made boats. Then the industry changed the manufacturing specification and it isn't as good as it used to be. It is better than AC.

If you custom order AA fir the shipping will cost more than the plywood. I go to my local lumber yard and ask them to put a half a dozen sheets onto their next semi-load from Oregon. Sometimes I have to wait a month. But that way the shipping is essentially free.

After a long Covid induced work stoppage I'm ready to re-start this project.
Following Sandy's advice _I'm now going to build this boat on a plug. Near impossible to securely fix plascor to the edges of the forms.
I've re-read the Dyack instructions - AS best i can figure the plug should be the same dimensions as the boat???
Will take the sides down from the forms- patch holes in forms and sides. Then fabricate plug out of 1/4 plywood.
suggestions, guidance???
Broke down an bough a West systems scarfing jig to build the plug.
Thanks
Bob

You had Covid? Me too. I got sick mid-March almost a year ago now. I'm 85% at best now. I'm a Covid long-hauler. It isn't much fun. I was working 3 hours a day. Occasionally four. Then I got impatient and moved a whole stack of plywood, got winded and had a month long relapse. I haven't even been in the shop for almost a month now.

Maybe next week. I'll be get the vaccine for sure. Even though I might not need it. I don't ever want this shit again.

First I was working my ass off in the ER- then got Covid after my respirator slipped off my nose while intubating a Covid patient! Wound up in the hospital for a week in October- was back to work just in time for the 2nd and 3rd waves. Took me 3 months to get back to normal. Fully vaccinated now too.
So- plug same dimensions as the boat?

RE> plug same dimensions? Sure. That means the finished boat will be ever so slightly wider than if you built directly on top of the temporary ribs. Hey. They built birch bark canoes and they were good boats. Minor tweaks don't really change anything.

Thanks
Off to buy plywood

Ok - plywood scarffed and epoxied- sides laid out and cut, transoms laid out. . Im trying to find the bevel angle for the transoms. Can't seem to find it - have vague memory that is 50 degrees. What is the bevel angel for transoms on buffalo boat? Goal is to have the plug on forms by middle of next week.
Thanks

fitdy dagrees
The triangle below makes three angles: 90 50 and 40
The 50 degree angle is between the 5 side and the 7-5/8 side.